I struggled to find the magic of Dublin: visiting for work limited my exploration time. Staying centrally I found limited options for breakfast before eight or eight-thirty, no bookshops open before 10 or after 6, and the ice cream from Dingle (where my grandfather grew up) wasn’t great. Architecturally it felt a little dull. Trinity College is lovely but I’ve seen its type a hundred times before. I was surprised by how small Dublin is, how quickly it becomes a suburb, and at the state of the housing stock. There are tiny terraced cottages really quite central of the sort you would find in the smaller suburban towns in England.
I took advice on dinner options and enjoyed the ribs and spring rolls at Xian Street Food. Someone saw a copy of David Copperfield open on the table next to me and struck up a conversation about it—he didn’t like the book(!) or Dickens (!!) and that was a fun chat. Meeting friends the next evening, I ate very well at The Winding Stair, enjoyed walking around the quay, and went to a very lively pub with traditional music made on a cello, guitar, and flute. For the first time in a long time I had alcohol and was pleased to taste Guinness in Ireland. There was a persistent rain which suited the atmosphere of the cobbles and alleys, and I saw a lively bar culture that was quite the opposite of the quiet daytime. Dropping into a bookshop on my way to dinner, I saw a large gathering that had turned out to hear about a new novel.
If I travel to Dublin for work again, I shall be glad to explore it more, taking more advice. Being with someone who knew the city improved my experience immeasurably. I suspect to really get Dublin you need to have many conversations with local people. I was sad to miss the museums and galleries. My main regret was not going inside St Patrick’s, where Swift was Dean, but I still can just read Swift... Perhaps I should re-read Ulysses before any future visit.
I arrived back in an England of soft rain, hawthorn, and cow parsley, for which I was glad.
The next book club is 14th May 19.00 UK time where we will be discussing David Copperfield and thinking about the intersection of fiction and autobiography.
Get the Dart to Howth and walk up to the Head for the view of the bay and Dublin. In spring the heady aroma of the heather is intoxicating. Also get the Dart to Bray. It's one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. If you are lucky you might see a Dolphin. Also eat in the local fast food chains like SuperMac and AbraKebabra.
Visited Dublin last year and quite enjoyed it. Stayed in Sandymount, where Stephen Dedalus takes a memorable walk on the beach.