I have lived in Baltimore for more than 50 years and everything you observed is true. It is an aging industrial city with a downtown in decline. Yet at the same time it has many vibrant neighborhoods, two renowned medical centers, a lively restaurant and theater scene, a progressive arts community, and a strong sense of itself. On your next visit, you should explore a bit more.
I do like how you write about place. I like that balance of writerly detachment and insightful connection and your eye for a detail: the ray on the floor of the tank that looks like a rug.
I like the writing a lot too. I rememver it when and know it is coming back. Everyplace does. I'm from NY. It's back almost a full generation. Hopeful for all our great cities.
Sometimes it seem that the city of Baltimore is defient its rejection of improvement and gentrification, pushing the thin layer of the tourist Inner Harbor back into the sea.
On another visit, the Walters Art Museum is wonderful, especially for medieval decorative arts - but really the whole collection is fascinating. And the Peabody Institute across the street. I worked on a project at the Walters some years ago, and the museum people I worked with, who lived in a pretty street of terraced early 19th c houses (reminding me very much of English streets) said they would visit each other at night by going between houses on the roof. It was obvious that the city had suffered terrible decline, but there were still so many absolutely splendid buildings near the Walters - very much worth seeing.
I don’t know The Wire, but Homicide, Life on the Streets, was one of my rare television favorites.
Meanwhile, Baltimore was just ranked #1 in fatal drug overdoses in the US. And I say this from the West Coast, which harbors most of the rest ~~ Vancouver, BC, Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles.
Maybe the most beautiful state. You did her justice. In On the Road the joke that you will remember from the book runs: Picked up a bum in Maryland in a downpouring rain. What is that book you are reaading? He said : i donot know, the title and the opening pages missing, but I have read it five times. It is a good book.
Through a strange twist of fate, I’m moving to Baltimore and now find myself in a temporary abode in Hampden. I’m starting to vibe with the city and find its row houses unique and endearing. Druid Hill Park is beautiful and has Moorish and Chinese influences and is a lovely place to run. So happy you visited.
I have lived in Baltimore for more than 50 years and everything you observed is true. It is an aging industrial city with a downtown in decline. Yet at the same time it has many vibrant neighborhoods, two renowned medical centers, a lively restaurant and theater scene, a progressive arts community, and a strong sense of itself. On your next visit, you should explore a bit more.
I am going back soon. Time was limited.
Understood. Checkout the Hamden neighborhood. Try Sunday brunch at Water for Chocolate. And the Baltimore Museum of Art if you like Matisse.
Just moving here from another old industrial city, Syracuse, NY. Living in Hampden.
I do like how you write about place. I like that balance of writerly detachment and insightful connection and your eye for a detail: the ray on the floor of the tank that looks like a rug.
I like the writing a lot too. I rememver it when and know it is coming back. Everyplace does. I'm from NY. It's back almost a full generation. Hopeful for all our great cities.
I commend you on choice of Nina Simone.
Very fitting of you to visit "The City that Reads."
Make sure to take a peek into the Peabody Library if you ever come again. Baltimore has many such gems!
I will do, thanks!
Sometimes it seem that the city of Baltimore is defient its rejection of improvement and gentrification, pushing the thin layer of the tourist Inner Harbor back into the sea.
Another delectable observational word pictorial! I applaud!
On another visit, the Walters Art Museum is wonderful, especially for medieval decorative arts - but really the whole collection is fascinating. And the Peabody Institute across the street. I worked on a project at the Walters some years ago, and the museum people I worked with, who lived in a pretty street of terraced early 19th c houses (reminding me very much of English streets) said they would visit each other at night by going between houses on the roof. It was obvious that the city had suffered terrible decline, but there were still so many absolutely splendid buildings near the Walters - very much worth seeing.
Your observations of America(ns) are like a modern day version of Alexis de Tocqueville’s.
I expect you know 'The Wire', set in Baltimore.
Mainly a grim portrait of the city. Never been there, but I've heard the (very good) symphony orchestra.
I don’t know The Wire, but Homicide, Life on the Streets, was one of my rare television favorites.
Meanwhile, Baltimore was just ranked #1 in fatal drug overdoses in the US. And I say this from the West Coast, which harbors most of the rest ~~ Vancouver, BC, Seattle, Portland, San Francisco, Los Angeles.
The American Visionary Art Museum is worthy a visit next time you’re there.
Maybe the most beautiful state. You did her justice. In On the Road the joke that you will remember from the book runs: Picked up a bum in Maryland in a downpouring rain. What is that book you are reaading? He said : i donot know, the title and the opening pages missing, but I have read it five times. It is a good book.
Through a strange twist of fate, I’m moving to Baltimore and now find myself in a temporary abode in Hampden. I’m starting to vibe with the city and find its row houses unique and endearing. Druid Hill Park is beautiful and has Moorish and Chinese influences and is a lovely place to run. So happy you visited.